After
months of saying that Amsterdam was the
trip of the semester, (our last trip before finals--eek!--and the conclusion of
the program) it finally arrived. My friends and I were perhaps most excited for
this trip. A lot of planning went in to it and it was the first trip that we
had all planned together, so it definitely represented something more than just
hopping on a plane to another country.
Thursday,
December 5
This
was the first trip I’ve taken since being in Prague that required a trip to the
airport. I’ve taken buses everywhere for the entire semester so I was oddly
excited to be in an airport and fly somewhere. Navigating Prague’s airport is
easy and they have a good public transportation system to get there, so we
started off our trip without any bumps. The weather was a bit choppy so our
flight was filled with turbulence and when we finally landed, everyone
applauded and we were happy to be on solid ground. Holland is a wonderful
country filled with such friendly people. It was surprisingly refreshing to be
in a place where English is ubiquitous and therefore made navigation to our
hostel fairly simple.
We
arrived on the later side, so after putting our bags down at the hostel, we
wandered around our neighborhood.
Our hostel was located right above a Crepes and Waffles store!
Another city, another Christmas market...
Our
hostel was in the heart of the Red Light District. Before you become alarmed,
you must know that Amsterdam as a city is very safe. In 2000, prostitution
became officially legal. The Red Light District is, as the name implies, the
center prostitution in Amsterdam, but also houses many tourist attractions
besides that. To many Americans, Amsterdam is known for two things: pot and
prostitution. Amsterdam is notorious for their “coffeeshops” (cafes that
legally sell pot), but after a day, I became overwhelmed by the ubiquitous
prevalence of these two things. My friends and I made an extra effort to explore
Amsterdam off the beaten track and see parts of the city that aren’t notorious
in the eyes of tourists. Generally this is how I like to travel (avoid all of
the tourist traps), so it seemed only natural to take this approach in
Amsterdam as well.
Friday,
December 6
Of
our entire trip, today was definitely the most planned. I’d heard that two of
the must-see things in Amsterdam are the Anne Frank House and the Van Gogh
Museum, both of which get really crowded, so I decided to make reservations in
advance. We started off our day at Winkel 43, a café that I learned about
through my friend Hillary’s study abroad blog (read her post about the café
here). Winkel is known for their apple pie, so we showed up bright and early
(8:45!!) to chow down on some killer apple pie for breakfast. Winkel is right
next to the Anne Frank House in a neighborhood called Jordaan. Our reservation
for the museum was at 9:40, so Winkel was a perfect place to stop for
breakfast.
Just look at it. How amazing does this pie look?!
Our Amsterdam trip was actually DJ's 21st birthday celebration so the waiter was kind enough to dress the pie up with a candle.
The
Anne Frank House was a very well-planned and user-friendly museum. There
were panels to read on the walls, but they were brief and interesting. Although
I’d heard Anne Frank’s story countless times, I never connected that she was
discovered in The Netherlands. Visiting her house and seeing the secret annex
that she and her family hid in was very powerful.
Exterior of the Anne Frank House
Following
the museum, we wandered around Jordaan (pronounced Yor-Don) a bit. Jordaan is
definitely my favorite area of Amsterdam. It is incredibly enchanting, charming
and quaint. It captures the Amsterdam that I envisioned before this trip and
lacks the overwhelming crowds of the Red Light District and city center.
The crew on a bridge of one of the many canals
The canals were amazing! Amsterdam is called "the Venice of the north"
Dani's photography skills caught us off guard
An example of what the exterior of a coffeeshop might look like
We
found it entirely necessary to stop by the famous Cheese Museum where you can
sample unlimited cheeses. The oddest flavor was definitely the wasabi cheese.
The truffle and pesto cheeses were to die for, but I couldn’t bring myself to
spend 20 euro on either. Because the cheese shop of also a “museum” we looked
around downstairs at the history of Dutch cheese and had a chance to dress up
as dairy farmers.
THE BEST CHEESE IN THE WORLD. If you don't believe me, go out and try Goat Truffle Cheese and then we can have a chat.
The pesto cheese was also killer.
Dani and Chelsea really got into it and dressed up as Dutch dairy farmers.
From
Jordaan, we wandered into the museum district of Amsterdam in anticipation of
our 3pm reservation at the Van Gogh museum. We took some pictures in front of
the famous IAMSTERDAM sign and wandered around the beautiful park that is
surrounded by the famous museums.
(Photo by: Chelsea VanOrden)
(Photo by: Chelsea VanOrden)
The
Van Gogh Museum was an incredible, 4-story exhibition of the Dutch painter’s
most famous works. The museum was brilliantly arranged, as it displayed Van
Gogh’s works in a chronological manner so that the viewers could see the
progression of his work. In general, I’m a fan of the work that he produced
while in Arles, France, because it is colorful and full of life. His earlier
works (The Potato Eaters, for example) are much darker. I
feel like many people assume that the most famous artists were just born art
prodigies and anything they drew or painted was an automatic masterpiece, but
this museum allowed me to see that Van Gogh worked very hard at his craft.
There was a clear evolution in his work and although he was obviously gifted, it was refreshing to see that he, too, had to work at perfecting his craft.
I usually hate when people take pictures of marvelous works of art because the photos have the ability to ruin the works with the glare and flash, but I included some photos that I took so that you could see some of the vast collection. They were really magnificent and I apologize that the photos don't do them justice:
Exterior of the museum
The layout of the museum was great
Holland
is known for establishing colonies in other parts of the world. At one point,
The Netherlands colonized Indonesia. Indonesian food is a must-have in
Amsterdam, so we decided to try it out for dinner. It was absolutely delicious,
and I’ll definitely be scoping out the Indonesian food scene in both LA and
NOLA.
Saturday,
December 7
For
breakfast today, we decided to try out famous Dutch Pancakes at The Pancake
Bakery (another recommendation from Hillary’s blog). We were again very pleased
with our choice. We had a chance to wander around the Noordermarkt, a
cool organic farmers market right next to the restaurant, before embarking on a
guided walking tour of the city.
Such beautiful and colorful displays of incredibly fresh food
I LOVED seeing shellfish! The Czech Republic is entirely landlocked so it's been a while since I've seen seafood (fresh seafood, that is).
The walking tour was great and I learned so
much about Amsterdam’s history. We walked through all of the famous areas and I
was able to see more of the city than if I had just led myself on a walking
tour. Our tour guide was a small, energetic Irishman who was very enthusiastic
about the tour and loved including random, but interesting facts about the
city. A long time ago, citizens were taxed based on the width of one's house, so people started building very narrow, but very tall houses here. The thinness of the houses provide a few obstacles: 1) The stairways are incredibly narrow and feel more like ladders than stairs, and 2) Moving large furniture or anything heavy becomes a problem. Wooden beams with hooks jut out of the tops of most of the buildings and act as a pully system for moving. It is not rare to see a fridge or sofa tied with ropes being pulled up the front of a building.
This is Amsterdam's thinnest house. The tenant is taller than the house is wide.
DJ and I
At
one point, The Netherlands was the most powerful force in trade. Has anyone
ever heard of the Dutch East India Trading Company? This company put The
Netherlands on the map as one of the most powerful countries in trade. Its
location on the water and its attitude towards modern capitalism allowed
Holland to become one of the wealthiest nations in the world. Amsterdam is
known for its tolerance of basically everything and after learning about how
important capitalism and profit is for the city, it makes sense. Their policy
is pretty much “if it’s not bothering anyone and it makes some kind of a profit, go for it.” This is why Holland
was a safe-haven for Jews during the persecution and why Amsterdam has become
known for legalized pot and prostitution. Actually, pot is not technically legal in Amsterdam, but because it attracts a multi-billion dollar tourist industry, they look past it and allow it to happen.
After
dinner, DJ and I took a long walk in search of one of Holland’s windmills. The
Netherlands is known for their windmills and gorgeous tulip fields and we were
determined to see one of the windmills that were accessible from the city
center. Venturing out to a tulip field seemed less realistic. We walked for about 30 minutes until we found it. The walk was
beautiful and we loved sitting beneath the windmill to rest our feet.
Sunday,
December 8
James,
Dani, and I decided to venture into the park near the museums. We got a bit
lost getting there and it turned into a 3-hour excursion, but the walk was
great and we got to see parts of the city that we otherwise would not have
seen. The park was glorious, bright green and massive, so we could only wander
through the front of it before we had to leave, but our adventure was fun. We
met up with our other friends for lunch and then went in search of the second
windmill in the city. We had to walk through Jordaan to get there and when we
saw the windmill, we realized that our long walk was worth it.
This is the
oldest windmill in Holland (built in the 1600s) and posses this classic quality
that has the ability to make one feel that you’ve been transported back in
time.
By the time we walked back to our hostel, it was time to board the train
back to the airport. Our flight was delayed so we had lots of time to kill in
the airport and we were all thrilled to touch down in Prague and return home.
The
weekend was really fun, but also incredibly exhausting. We spent 12 hours a day
up and on our feet, so I’m looking forward to a (hopefully) relaxing last week
in Prague. While this trip was filled with new adventures, it was bittersweet
because we all knew that it was the last trip before the end of our program. It
feels like just yesterday that I was stepping off the plane in Prague,
celebrating my 21st and embarking on my first weekend trip to Vienna
with DJ. I can’t believe how the time has flown by. As I begin this week, I’m
going to make an extra effort to be present in each moment and just enjoy the
time I have left here. I never could have realized that a mere three months of
my life could leave such a profound impact.
Czeching
out,
Grace
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